Friday 14 December 2012

Ruinart Brut NV, Champagne, France

This has had 2 years in the cellar. I tend to to try and cellar pretty much every traditional-method sparkling wine I buy for at least a short period of time, although looking back on my notes I was really knocked out by the other bottle of this that I had (bought at the same time) pretty much straight off the shelf. There’s a sweetness of juicy white nectarines here, with touches of dried apple, ginger, ratafia and vanilla. It’s a fine and charming nose, still quite youthful in its composition but starting to develop. On the palate the bottle age is just beginning to show in a deeper sense of savoury weight to accompany the stone fruit. Finishes with some icing sugar/vanilla lift as well as some very pert acidity and even a touch of nutty bitterness. It’s feeling a little pinched on the finish, whereas my impression of this wine 2 years ago was one of suaveness and generosity. Interesting.
I think this wine might counter my general opinion that NV champagne will always benefit from a bit of time in the cellar. Perhaps this bottle isn’t perfect - it’s missing the sense of balance and lushness that it did 2 years ago. I really loved that bottle!