Man O' War Dreadnought Syrah 2009, Waiheke, New Zealand

Serious Syrah - takes some time to open out this one. There’s a meaty waft of smoked pancetta over the buzzing loganberry fruit, with milk chocolate sweetness and smouldering black cardamom and peppercorn spice. Really beautifully judged aromatic profile. On the palate it’s a bit burlier than I would have expected, weighing in at 14.5 alcohol. Quite tangy acidity rushes in as grippy berry fruit takes hold. The fruit profile is quite sharp, but not tart. This wine feels a bit raw right now - I think the high alcohol and acid are not quite sitting perfectly. Interestingly the 2007 and 2008 were14.0% A.B.V, not 14.5 - I just wonder whether the ripeness and extraction are just a tad over the top here? Some really stunning flavours though - try it in a year perhaps?

Lanson Gold Label 1999, Champagne, France

This has been in the cellar for about 3 years. . Some welcoming, broad richness on the nose here, with apricot kernel, sweet candied fruits, seville orange, icing sugar and vanilla. The mouse and mouthfeel don’t carry much effervescence - to be expected perhaps. Whether it’s just this bottle or the wine in general I’m not sure, but it seems to be fading a little, lacking the cut and thrust that I associate with Lanson (and indeed the 1998, which I tasted a couple of years back and really enjoyed). There’s a bitter citrus edge to the finish, which is touch hollow and suggestive of a touch of oxidation in this bottle perhaps? Still enjoyable though.
(picture shows the 1998)