Dr Loosen Beerenauslese 2006, Mosel, Germany

Again this was an inexpensive buy that has been in the cellar for about 3 years, though it obviously would be very happy there for much, much longer. Theres jasmine, pithy lime, dried mango and kerosine on the very expressive nose. It’s lithe and nervy on the palate; a fine balance between almost viscous tropical sweetness and piercing, ripe lime acidity. It ends up feeling light and breezy though - yes it’s sweet but there’s real delicacy here. There’s also a sense that this wine is out of its childhood in the haunting, almost savoury twist to the lime-cordial and lighter fluid finish.

Heidsieck & Co Monopole Gold Top 2004, Champagne, France

A cheapie but a goodie, bought about 2 years ago from Majestic. Lovely rich straw colour. Rich baked apple, vanilla, dried tropical fruits and apricot kernel on the nose.There’s a real vivacity on the palate to match the richness, with keen lemon peel acidity and a touch of pithiness and generous helping off juicy stone-fruit sweetness. Great, and a bargain! Everything you would want from a £25 Champagne - would definitely consider picking up some newer vintages and hoarding them away for a few years.

Tenute Sella - Bramaterra I Porfidi 2003, Piedmont, Italy

Interesting reflection of Nebbiolo, blended with small amounts of Croatina and Vespolina from the northern reaches of Piedmont. At first there’s a lovely gaminess on the nose, accompanied by juniper/clove/cinnamon spiciness. With time the sweet, slightly wild strawberry and sloe fruit emerges, with a touch of date and gentle violet perfume. The elegance of ripe autumnal fruit on the palate is really charming; the wine feels open and mature, but the cool, bright acidity is keeping it keen. A contemplative and rather beautiful wine, showing no signs of inelegance from the 2003 heat.