Tenute Sella - Bramaterri I Porfidi 2003, Piedmont, Italy

Interesting reflection of Nebbiolo, blended with small amounts of Croatina and Vespolina from the northern reaches of Piedmont. At first there’s a lovely gaminess on the nose, accompanied by juniper/clove/cinnamon spiciness. With time the sweet, slightly wild strawberry and sloe fruit emerges, with a touch of date and gentle violet perfume. The elegance of ripe autumnal fruit on the palate is really charming; the wine feels open and mature, but the cool, bright acidity is keeping it keen. A contemplative and rather beautiful wine, showing no signs of inelegance from the 2003 heat.

Nyetimber 2006, Sussex, England

When I bought this a couple of years I remember thinking that Nyetimber was letting its lead slip a little at the forefront of English winemaking - their packaging was starting to look dated and a bit naff, other producers were undercutting them with some good wines and there just wasn’t quite the buzz around the wines that there had been a few years beforehand. As it turns out they were still making some great wines (the 2003 Blanc de Blancs being probably the best wine I’ve had from this country), and, with the 2007 vintage, went on to redesign the whole brand top-to-bottom. The bottles now look fabulous, there’s definition and simplicity to the product line, and the Rosé is proving rather popular. It’s clear that the big boys are going to fight to stay at the top of the pile.

2006 was a very warm year, and it seems as thought the folk at Nyetimber made the most of the ripeness of the grapes. After 20 mins this is quite flamboyant on the nose, with praline, apricot danish, dried apple, pineapple and kiwi all making an appearance. That generosity of tropical fruit and pastry is felt on the palate, which is nevertheless quite focused and savoury, with curt acidity and a gentle vanilla sweetness. It is a delicious wine, quite extroverted and perhaps a bit unusual but very satisfying nonetheless.