Sunday 13 January 2013

Poggiofoco Cecco 2009, Sovana, Tuscany, Italy


This was a gift from some Italians, and is not available in this country so far as I can see. A shame, as it’s lovely stuff - 95% Cabernet and 5% Sangiovese, though it tastes like more. It tastes Tuscan more than of the grape variety, with elegant tobacco-touched blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, chargrilled chicory, violet and menthol. Lovely sappy freshness and grip on the palate, with plenty of savour and length to balance the fruit. Great discovery!

Wednesday 9 January 2013

Filipa Pato Touriga Nacional 2011 for Bottle Apostle, Bairrada, Portugal

When Filipa Pato had a barrel of Touriga Nacional going, the enterprising chaps at Bottle Apostle snapped it up and put in on their shelves as a special bottling. Always a sucker, for a one-off, I picked one up, aware that the wine was really meant as a part of a blend that just didn’t get used. The question begs - why not?
This is quite a moody, brooding wine on the nose with over-ripe blackberries, milk chocolate, liquorice, nutmeg and green peppercorns. There’s a sense of black forest gateaux and quite a thick slab of oak if I’m honest. There’s also a little cool mint and floral sweetness around the edges though. The palate starts with some nice acidity, with thick blackberry fruit and a serious, but not overwhelming seam of tannin. It’s quite abrupt and without the elegance that I’ve come to expect from modern Portugal, and I find the oak a bit obvious. But then again, what do you expect? It’s an interesting drop but it does feel like one piece of a puzzle.