Craggy Range Te Kahu 2006, Gimblett Gravels, New Zealand

This has been in the cellar for a couple of years since purchasing from Majestic. It's a Bordeaux Blend based on Merlot, with Malbec and Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc also present.
The nose reminds me of St Emilion with sweet blackcurrants and redcurrant jelly (where's the lamb?). There's also a little black treacle and allspice from the oak ageing in evidence. It seems very 'proper'. The palate starts with sweet and grippy currant fruit, but verges towards sour and a little abrupt. Towards the finish it is intensely savoury and a little clunky. If I had any I'd keep hold of it, perhaps more in hope than expectation - as it is it's a little austere I'm afraid.

Gallimard Cuvee de Reserve

Gallimard is a grower in Ricey, in the Aube to the south of the champagne region, with 10ha of vines and an output of 150000 bottles per year. It's Pinot Noir country down there, and this is certainly largely Pinot - I can't find any detailed information but I wouldn't be surprised if there was just a touch of chardonnay in this too.
This is rich with classic baked apples, roasted nuts and vanilla on the nose, but also the delicacy of honeysuckle and citrus. There's a lovely fine texture on the palate, with textbook pinot richness, waxy fruit and umami flavours. It's fairly simple and primary but very delicious - at around £25 it is excellent value.

Lanson Gold Lable 1998, Champagne, France

I like Lanson champagnes, although the Black label is often nowhere near its best straight off the shelf. With no malolactic (the process of converting part of the acid component in the new wine to a softer, creamier kind) the wine can take a while to come around. This is starting to happen here, after 14 years! It's quite autumnal with lightly spiced apple sauce and honey roasted almonds under fresh, sweet icing sugar and lemon zest. The effervescence is subdued, and palate is quite vinous with that fresh malic acidity keeping it lively as it delivers those developing flavours wrapped up in the lingering sweetness of dosage. You could keep this very happily for another 10 years I think, though it's lovely at this stage.

La Braincaia Chianti Classico 2004

95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot with 16 months in French oak from this quite high-end producer of celebrated Super Tuscan 'Il Blu'. The nose is alive with fragrant loganberry fruit, clove and liquorice, with notes of prune and basil, the palate delivering attractive sweet and sour berry fruit and fresh almond on the finish. It's modern in style but with serious acidity and structure too - it will be good at 10 years old.