Sunday 23 February 2014

Clarendon Hills Hickinbotham Syrah 2006, McClaren Vale, Australia

I picked this up from The Sampler in Islington - not the sort of thing I normally drink but it turned out to be outstanding. It's also a real pleasure to be able to purchase a wine like this with enough bottle age. The perfumed nose jumps out of the glass with ripe loganberry and blackcurrant fruit, behind which lurk layers of espresso, bay leaf and even creme brulee. There's a gentle treacle and liquorice sweetness which comes through on the plushly-textured palate, its deep seam of autumn hedgerow fruit balanced by hillside herbs of bay and pepper and a savoury touch of graphite. Lovely detailed, floral finish. Yes it's a big wine, but it's no brute - there's depth and character behind the immediate deliciousness.