Thursday 28 June 2012

El Maestro Sierra Fino, Jerez, Spain


Serious sherry is one of the bargains of the wine world. I love it. It is similar to champagne in that a lot of the interesting flavours come from the winemaking process rather than from the primary flavours of the grapes. Both wines offer flavour experiences you don't get any other way, and in both cases you have big houses producing dependable, consistent styles and smaller producers going their own way with exciting results.
This is quite extravagant on the nose for Fino, with seville orange and pithy lemon fruit, the lightness of meadow flowers, sea air and fragrant almonds/cashews all emerging from the quite deeply-coloured liquid. Real weight on the palate here, with fine ripe citrus acidity and intense, savoury grip coupled with floral dimension and the tang of salty cured meat on the finish. Long, ripe, bold Fino, and much more than an aperitif - this is serious food wine. Think pot-roast chicken with honey, saffron, pimenton (and sherry of course, but I'd get something a bit humbler for the cooking....)

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