Leung Estate 'Ma Maison' Pinot Noir 2011, Martinborough, New Zealand

I had a real Pinot craving this evening. When you have a Pinot craving there's no point fighting it -
nothing else will do and you just have to get out the banknotes and take your chances. There are lots of pretty top-tier New Zealand pinots that come in under £30 retail, and I have found a couple that have really grabbed me over the years. I tried my luck on this one, from the shelves of the ever-reliable Bottle Apostle down the road in Victoria Park.
Whether it's the vintage or just the vineyard style, this wine comes in very much at the crunchy red fruit end of the spectrum, with raspberries in vanilla yoghurt, redcurrants and sweet poached strawberry fruit gently rising above touches of green peppercorn and basil. The palate brings together the summery softness of that red fruit with a pervading tang of acidity; I can't help feeling that this wine is just a touch less ripe than it would really like to be. It comes in at 13%abv and it feels just a touch mean. I don't like big, burly pinots; however, whilst long on elegance and fruit definition it just hasn't quite scratched that Pinot itch...
As an aside, the notes on the back of the label do point to this being a vintage to drink young for this wine, so it's probably worth having a pop at another year.

Man O' War Dreadnought Syrah 2009, Waiheke, New Zealand

Serious Syrah - takes some time to open out this one. There’s a meaty waft of smoked pancetta over the buzzing loganberry fruit, with milk chocolate sweetness and smouldering black cardamom and peppercorn spice. Really beautifully judged aromatic profile. On the palate it’s a bit burlier than I would have expected, weighing in at 14.5 alcohol. Quite tangy acidity rushes in as grippy berry fruit takes hold. The fruit profile is quite sharp, but not tart. This wine feels a bit raw right now - I think the high alcohol and acid are not quite sitting perfectly. Interestingly the 2007 and 2008 were14.0% A.B.V, not 14.5 - I just wonder whether the ripeness and extraction are just a tad over the top here? Some really stunning flavours though - try it in a year perhaps?

Craggy Range Te Kahu 2006, Gimblett Gravels, New Zealand

This has been in the cellar for a couple of years since purchasing from Majestic. It's a Bordeaux Blend based on Merlot, with Malbec and Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc also present.
The nose reminds me of St Emilion with sweet blackcurrants and redcurrant jelly (where's the lamb?). There's also a little black treacle and allspice from the oak ageing in evidence. It seems very 'proper'. The palate starts with sweet and grippy currant fruit, but verges towards sour and a little abrupt. Towards the finish it is intensely savoury and a little clunky. If I had any I'd keep hold of it, perhaps more in hope than expectation - as it is it's a little austere I'm afraid.