Saturday 5 October 2013

Leung Estate 'Ma Maison' Pinot Noir 2011, Martinborough, New Zealand

I had a real Pinot craving this evening. When you have a Pinot craving there's no point fighting it -
nothing else will do and you just have to get out the banknotes and take your chances. There are lots of pretty top-tier New Zealand pinots that come in under £30 retail, and I have found a couple that have really grabbed me over the years. I tried my luck on this one, from the shelves of the ever-reliable Bottle Apostle down the road in Victoria Park.
Whether it's the vintage or just the vineyard style, this wine comes in very much at the crunchy red fruit end of the spectrum, with raspberries in vanilla yoghurt, redcurrants and sweet poached strawberry fruit gently rising above touches of green peppercorn and basil. The palate brings together the summery softness of that red fruit with a pervading tang of acidity; I can't help feeling that this wine is just a touch less ripe than it would really like to be. It comes in at 13%abv and it feels just a touch mean. I don't like big, burly pinots; however, whilst long on elegance and fruit definition it just hasn't quite scratched that Pinot itch...
As an aside, the notes on the back of the label do point to this being a vintage to drink young for this wine, so it's probably worth having a pop at another year.

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